Genuine leather goods put to the test: how robust is leather
FROM SKIN TO LEATHER
To understand the properties of genuine leather, it helps to take a closer look at the origin and production of this natural product: Genuine leather is an organic product and is generally made from the hides of cattle, calves, goats, lambs, pigs, deer, or horses. Most of these hides come from "waste products" of the food industry.
The surface of smooth leather consists of fine, firm hide fibers. Because the animal's fur was on this side of the leather, it is also called the leather grain. Due to the characteristic structure of the leather surface, the so-called " grain ," it is also referred to as the "grain side" of the leather. It is considered the highest quality layer of the leather and is the reason why smooth leather is particularly tear-resistant and less susceptible to dirt and moisture.
Suede is broadly divided into nubuck and velour leather . Nubuck leather is produced by roughening the grain side of the leather, creating a velvety surface. Velour leather is made from the flesh split of the leather.
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QUALITY MAKES THE DIFFERENCE
Regardless of the type of leather, the quality of the leather also makes a crucial difference. Split leather, for example, is not as durable during use as full-grain leather. Therefore, when considering the durability of genuine leather goods, it's always worth taking a closer look.
THE QUALITY OF GENUINE LEATHER: A BRIEF TERM
Full grain leather
Full-grain leather is known in the trade as "full-grain leather." This term denotes the highest quality leather. In this case, the leather comes from the part of the hide that was located directly beneath the animal's fur: the grain side or hair side. This layer has the highest tissue density and can absorb nourishing oils and fats particularly well, making it especially elastic and durable.
The surface of the full-grain leather has not been sanded, so it is completely intact and undamaged. The natural grain of the genuine leather is preserved.
Because only limited portions of the hide can be processed into full-grain leather, this robust and high-quality genuine leather is relatively expensive to produce. Full-grain leather products are therefore particularly valuable, but also very durable and, with proper care, can last for decades.
Top grain leather
The next rank in the hierarchy of leather types is top grain leather. Here, the grain side of the genuine leather is lightly sanded, resulting in a velvety feel and a uniform surface. However, this type of processing does cause the leather to lose some stability. Top grain leather goods are still very high quality, but they are somewhat less robust and more susceptible to dirt than genuine leather goods made from full grain leather.
Genuine Leather
Literally translated, the term "genuine leather" means "real leather," which suggests that it is a particularly high-quality genuine leather product. In reality, however, the opposite is true: this leather is also called split leather and is a byproduct of the production of high-quality leather goods. Splitting involves separating the grain side from the flesh side. The upper, dense layer of the hide produces high-quality full-grain leather. The lower layer is processed into genuine leather, such as suede or split leather with a PU coating. Its structure is less dense and therefore less robust.
FURTHER QUALITY FACTORS FOR THE ROBUSTNESS OF GENUINE LEATHER GOODS
Besides the question of how each layer of leather was processed, other factors influence the quality of the leather. These include, for example, the age, sex, diet, and living conditions of the animal, as well as the climate in which the animal lived. The different tanning methods also play a significant role in its durability.
Influence of age
Like human skin, animal skin loses elasticity with age. Therefore, genuine leather goods made from the hides of younger animals are of higher quality and more robust than those from older animals.
Influence of gender
The tissue of male animals and female animals that have not yet been pregnant generally has a denser fiber structure and a finer grain. As a result, genuine leather goods made from male hides are often more robust.
Influence of animal husbandry
The question of where and how the animal lived also plays a role in the later leather quality. Leather from animals raised on pasture is more robust and of higher quality, as this type of husbandry has a positive effect on the structure of the animal hide.
Influence of diet
Just as our diet has a decisive influence on our skin's appearance, healthy food also affects the quality of leather. The healthier and more balanced the animal's diet, the higher the quality of the leather will be.
Influence of the animal's life history
It is hardly surprising that the skin of female animals that have given birth to many young has less elasticity and resilience. But sexual activity also affects the stability of the skin fiber structure in males: Castrated oxen tend to have a finer skin structure than breeding bulls.
Influence of climate
A harsh climate is not only beneficial for the quality of wool fibers. A cold climate also has positive effects on skin quality.
THE RIGHT CARE
Like human skin, leather can readily absorb nourishing fats and oils. Proper care helps to keep genuine leather goods robust and maintain their elasticity and resilience.
It is therefore worthwhile to invest in quality leather and to care for it regularly. Genuine leather goods made from high-quality leather, when properly cared for and treated, are extremely robust and can last for decades, developing a patina without losing any of their beauty.
